Note: This post is long over-due. Part of the reason it’s taken so long is that fact that there’s so much to tell about the trip. However, in the spirit of expediency, I am opting for a condensed version of my intended posting. If you want to know more, let me know and I can add more later.
In this post (and the next) I want to talk about my extra time that I spent in the old-town of Dubrovnik by myself. I’ll hit the highlights here, but be sure to check out all of the photos over at http://dstovall.org/albums/croatia-2007, starting at Number 40 or so. There are a bunch of photos that are nice art-sy kinds of shots that didn’t really fit into this narrative.
What better way to start the narrative then with my departure from the safety of the hotel that I was staying at… for you see, I had absolutely no plans what-so-ever after this point, save a plane ticket for a couple days later. So there I was, hauling a rolling suitcase, a messenger bag with my laptop, and my camera bag onto the local bus. I had been promised that it would take me to Dubrovnik, but with the language barrier and all, it might have been heading in the opposite direction.
We stopped at several other hotels to pick up (mostly Croatian) tourists, and after an hour or so, I caught my first good look at Dubrovnik from the road. I did get the right bus!
My last look at the conference hotel
The hills overlooking the road to Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik from the bus
One of the unfortunate parts of being such an interesting and beautiful city on the Mediterranean coast is attracting cruise boats. Now normally, I’m all in favor of tourist coming in and dropping their money into a town that really needs it… but since the boats all have buffet dinners on board, the passengers only spend money at the trinket shops and perhaps a lunch shop. This means that all these obnoxious tourists tramp all over town and barely pay for it.
When I arrived, the third boat was pulling in to anchor
And if you’re lucky, you’ll catch a full moon by the church…
When I got off the bus, I just sorta headed towards old town. The guides all recommend finding a private room to stay in rather than using a hotel. While I had a general idea that I could maybe walk around and find something, I really had no idea what I was doing. Lucky for my, my suitcase gave me away and a local guy approached me asking if I needed a room. We muddled through a couple questions about price and location, both of which sounded great to me. With an “ok, let me see it”, we took off across the drawbridge to the city.
We had to push through the main gate which was packed with tourists (remember the cruise boats) and down some side streets, but within a couple minutes we arrived at a staircase and then an unmarked door. Inside I was introduced to the family, and shown to the room that I would be using. While the bathroom and shower were inside the family’s apartment, the bedroom was across the hall which made it easy to get in and out without disturbing anyone.
The bedroom itself was probably 8 foot by 16 foot. There was a little table, a coat rack, and enough floor space to lay my suitcase down and still be able to walk around it.
My room’s window is open, just above a nice cafe
A standard single bed, a chair, and a lamp… what more do I really need?
Oh, and a window.
At night, the quiet murmur of conversation wafted through the open window
This shot is to make up for the horrible shot I took of the clock tower when I came to Dubrovnik on the conference trip
Dubrovnik is a pretty cool place. You may have already figured that out for yourself, but just to be clear… I visited so many places and saw so many cool little attractions that I might induce quite a bit of boredom if I were to list everything. So instead, just enjoy these photos…
A narrow street or two
Cute little doorways
Someone’s secret patio outside their house.
Wider passages outside the old part of the town
Staying in town means you can go see some amazing stuff at sunrise… before the cuise ships start ferring people to the dock
The town’s fortifications are somewhat impressive…
Just another pretty picture
No, this is not a hobbit hole
Staying on the city walls tour until closing time offers some nice exposures
Food. When reading through the guides for Dubrovnik and the surrounding area, you might get the impression that the barbecued fish is really top-notch and you should be planning on sea food for the entire trip. Well, the fish is ok, but I really didn’t find it all that trilling. Honestly, the restaurants are all capable of creating great food in whatever style they choose. Be it pasta or pizza or French or what have you. And really, it’s the ambiance of the little 5-15 tables arranged in the passageway just outside the kitchen that gives the meal it’s allure anyhow. Eating at a cozy and dimly-lit table with open air is great, and makes any meal pleasant.
The tables are set up in the streets and passages between the buildings. Just enough room is left to let people walk by.
Seafood pasta and beer… I think this was $7.
Giant (and delicious) pizza and beer… about $10.
I stopped at the local grocery and stocked up on veggies and fruit to snack on…
…but gave into dessert from time to time…
Cats! They were everywhere. They seemed to be Dubrovnik’s version of the pigeons that you find in most cities begging for food from everyone. Not that there weren’t any pigeons, but it seems that the narrow passageways are better suited to the cat then the bird. The cats are all nice enough though, and really don’t bother people much. I suppose they are stray, but one would be more likely to think they are someone’s house cat by looking at them.
Click the photos above or visit http://dstovall.org/albums/croatia-2007 for more photos.
Editor’s Note: Spelling errors as well as image and link URLs updated on 2008.05.26
